57 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation
By Frances Grimble
Directoire Revival Fashions 1888–1889:
57 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation contains
an in-depth selection of high-quality women’s clothing patterns
from the end of the bustle era. During these years, picturesque styles
evoking the late 18th and early 19th centuries were popular. These included
tailored redingotes cut back to expose a contrasting skirt, embroidered
and brocaded vest effects, dresses with high Empire waists, and puffy
fichus. There was an emphasis on fancy sleeves, which were variously
inspired by the Middle Ages, the late 16th century, and the 1830s. In
addition, the silhouette progressively deflated from one with considerable
back fullness and puffy draperies to the comparatively narrow one of
the early 1890s.
This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and morning
wear; wrappers and tea gowns; skirts and overskirts; ensembles consisting
of a bodice, a skirt, and an overskirt or draperies; ensembles consisting
of a polonaise and a skirt; house, street, and evening dresses; sports
outfits; and outer jackets, coats, and wraps. The patterns are drawn
from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion magazine. They were
used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream
styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick.
These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, printed versions
of which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions.
Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom
sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic.
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Many patterns in this book are
accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions,
drawn from Butterick’s Delineator magazine. Each of these
supplements shows optional style variations that can be produced
by using flat pattern alteration techniques, or merely by substituting
a garment section from a different pattern in this book or draping
an overskirt pattern differently. The descriptions include information
on construction and fabrics. Edited selections from fashion
columns in The Delineator and
Harper’s Bazar, and from
a circa 1890 dressmaking manual, add information on construction
and on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions
and illustrations for 34 trimmings and 85 accessories. The book’s
glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Reviews“These books [Bustle Fashions 1885–1887 and Directoire Revival Fashions 1888–1889] open up the world of the 1880s dressmaker and the practicalities of her work. As always with works from [Lavolta Press], they are well produced with clear text and diagrams.” |
| —— Naomi Tarrant, Costume (Journal of the Costume Society, United Kingdom) |
| “[Bustle Fashions 1885–1887 and Directoire Revival Fashions 1888–1889] are two exquisitely detailed and superbly illustrated resources. . . . Both of these seminal editions are valuable and practical guides to detailed costume creation for the era, making them truly exceptional and highly recommended additions to personal, professional, academic, and community library History of Fashion instructional reference collections.” |
| —— Midwest Book Review |
| “This entire series from Frances Grimble is the most astounding amount of compiled research we’ve ever seen! A valuable resource for costumers, re-enactors, history aficionados, or anyone wanting a comprehensive look at these fashions and the culture surrounding them. I purchased the entire set for my wife (costumer, historian . . .) and we were completely impressed with both the quality of the contents as well as the layout and organization of the series.” |
| —— A Customer |
ContentsDirectoire Revival Fashions 1888–1889
contains patterns, instructions, fashion plates, and adaptation suggestions for:
Only 86 cents per pattern! Far more economical than buying separate patterns for each garment in an outfit (consisting of an ensemble, undergarments, and outerwear) This 563-page book also includes:
Index (readable with Adobe Acrobat) Author BiographyFrances Grimble is the author of After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles, The Lady’s Stratagem: A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette, Reconstruction Era Fashions: 350 Sewing, Needlework, and Millinery Patterns 1867–1868, Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 1: Undergarments, Bodices, Skirts, Overskirts, Polonaises, and Day Dresses 1877–1882, Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 2: Evening, Bridal, Sports, Outerwear, Accessories, and Dressmaking 1877–1882, Bustle Fashions 1885–1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation, The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates, and The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques. Over 60 of her articles on sewing and vintage clothes have appeared in national magazines, such as Threads, Sew News, and Antique Trader Weekly. Frances Grimble has been a how-to writer and editor since 1983. She has worked for book publishers, magazine publishers, and software companies; she has written a number of user manuals and coauthored a computer book.Frances Grimble has substantial formal education in researching social history and in clothing design. In 1974 she began making historical reproductions for periods from the Renaissance into the 1920s; she tries to schedule regular sewing time in addition to that required by her writing projects. Since 1972, she has collected vintage clothing and accessories from the late 18th century into the mid 20th. Publication Data8 1/2” x 11” quality paperback563 pages 284 illustrations Glossary, bibliography, index, metric conversion table ISBN: 978-0-9636517-9-2 PCN: 2010925550 Cover price: $49 (plus sales tax for California purchasers) Shipping: $5 (for media mail within the US) Order form (readable with
Adobe Acrobat) Web page text and book cover copyright © 2010 by Frances
Grimble |