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You can enlarge the patterns by several different methods, depending on
the source. The German manual Vollständige Schule der
Damenschneiderei, newly translated into English, gives patterns to be
drafted with apportioning scales. Apportioning scales are special
rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to dolls,
without doing arithmetic. It also gives patterns you can draft with
ordinary rulers, and patterns you can develop from a period “sloper.”
The scaled diagrams from Harper’s Bazar and other publications may be
enlarged by gridding or projection. Each volume contains clear,
step-by-step instructions for all these enlargement methods and a full
set of apportioning scales.
Extensive quotes from fashion magazines and etiquette manuals give you
in-depth information on construction, materials, trimmings, and
wardrobe planning. Volume 2 includes a substantial manual on 1870s and
1880s dressmaking and millinery, created especially for this book. A
glossary, which appears in both volumes, explains period fabric names
and dressmaking terms.
Fashions of the Gilded Age is a
rich pattern source for those who
create period costume for theater, film, living history, reenactment,
bridal wear, or dolls. It’s a valuable identification and dating tool
for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. This may be the
only book (and the only patterns) you’ll ever need for women’s fashions
of 1877 through 1882.
Volume 1 contains patterns, instructions, and fashion plates for:
- 7 corsets, 1 hoopskirt, and 2 bustles
- 1 pair drawers and 19 chemises
- 2 corset covers and 2 chemisettes
- 4 petticoats and 1 petticoat train
- 3 dressing gowns and 1 morning sacque
- 2 wrappers and 2 morning dresses
- 2 nightdresses and 1 night jacket
- 4 skirts for day and evening
- 42 day bodices
- 11 evening bodices
- 12 overskirts
- 10 polonaises
- 17 day dresses (their bodices, skirts, overskirts, and polonaises can be used with other patterns)
- 1 coat, 6 coat collars, and 7 coat sleeves
Only 31 cents per pattern!
This 469-page book also includes:
- Apportioning scales (drafting rulers), which enable you to easily enlarge patterns to your unique measurements
- Directions for enlarging patterns by projection and by gridding
- Instructions for developing patterns from an existing pattern
- Techniques for fitting different figures
- Quotes from period sources, on styles, construction, materials, trimmings, and colors
Table of Contents (readable with
Adobe Acrobat)
Index of Patterns by Enlargement
Method and Needlework Technique (readable with Adobe Acrobat)
Reviews
When it comes to historical pattern-making reference manuals, my rule .
. . is the narrower the focus, the greater the resource value. . . .
Frances Grimble’s Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volumes 1 and 2
certainly has focus. Though micro in its historical time frame . . . it
is macro in its coverage of the complete wardrobe of that era’s woman
of social position and means. . . .
To the costume designer, the selection
of styles, the articulation of contexts, the recommendations for figure
types allow for visualization of an ensemble scene as well as the
development of a character. Color palette options, fabrications,
accessory requirements are all here too. To the costume cutter and
sewer, the patterns—the bulk of this publication—are invaluable. . . .
There are probably other applications for this text,
but I have approached my evaluation subjectively.
I can honestly say that with my experience to date and in anticipation of
future incarnations as a wardrobe technician of various sorts, I am sleeping
better for having (the two of) these volumes on my shelf.
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| —— Costume Journal (Journal of the Costume Society of Ontario) |
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Packed from cover to cover [with] solid information. . . .
A superb reference.
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| —— Midwest Book Review |
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“Great books—so many pictures and patterns! I am very very happy! I can hardly
wait to try one out!!!” “Your two-volume set, Fashions of the Gilded Age,
is the best reference material I've ever found on that period.” “The pictures and
descriptions within the book are an excellent reference if you are researching
and intending on creating one of these beautiful designs.” “I appreciate the
scales included that help me make other books without the scales more usable too,
as well as the wonderful trimming ideas. I not only sew, but also knit and
crochet (and want to learn tatting and macramé some day) so I like it that a
lot of the books cover some of these aspects as well.” “When I fell in love
with a polonaise pattern I saw in an original issue of La Mode Illustree,
and to my delight came across the pattern in Fashions of the Gilded Age,
I considered my options—either spend the time enlarging the original pattern or
start with a pattern from a small historic pattern company and do heavy-duty modifications.
I chose to do enlargement and it proved to be an easier task than I had feared.
The pattern I used was 1/8 scale and I had no trouble sizing it up.
It fit surprisingly well to start with and I only had to make a few fitting changes.
I have also played around with the scales for enlargement and found that quite easy
as well.” “We used these books in our construction of
‘A Doll's House.’ Although I prefer
draping to flat patterning, I found them extremely useful in the placement
of seams and arrangement of back draperies. This period (between bustles)
is hard to find, as many books just skip right over it.” “I have everything
you’ve published so far. Just seeing your name on a book tends to make
me give it a closer scrutiny.” “I just wanted to tell you that I bought
both volumes of Fashions of the Gilded Age. I have enjoyed them so much,
I will be buying all of your books.”
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| —— Reader comments |
Author Biography
Frances Grimble is the author of
After a Fashion:
How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles,
Reconstruction Era Fashions: 350
Sewing, Needlework, and Millinery Patterns 1867–1868,
Fashions of the Gilded Age,
Volume 2: Evening, Bridal, Sports, Outerwear, Accessories, and Dressmaking
1877–1882, The Voice of Fashion: 79
Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates, and
The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns
with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques.
Over 60 of her articles on sewing and vintage clothes have
appeared in national magazines, such as Threads, Sew News, and
Antique Trader Weekly. Frances Grimble has been a how-to writer and
editor since 1983. She has worked for book publishers, magazine publishers, and software companies; she has written
a number of user manuals and coauthored a computer book.
Frances Grimble has substantial formal education in researching social history
and in clothing design. In 1974 she began making historical reproductions for
periods from the Renaissance into the 1920s; she tries to schedule regular sewing
time in addition to that required by her writing projects. Since 1972, she has
collected vintage clothing and accessories from the late 18th century into the mid
20th.
Publication Data8 1/2” x 11” quality paperback
469 pages
200 line illustrations
160 patterns
Glossary, bibliography, 2 indexes, apportioning scales, metric conversion table
ISBN: 0-9636517-5-7
LCCN: 2003114921
$49 cover price for volume 1 only (plus sales tax for California consumers)
$4 shipping (for media mail within the US)
Order form (readable with Adobe Acrobat)
Lavolta Press home page
Web page text and
book cover copyright © 2004–2005 by Frances Grimble
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