350 Sewing, Needlework, and Millinery Patterns 1867–1868

By Frances Grimble

Reconstruction Era Fashions contains a comprehensive selection of women’s styles from the years immediately following the American Civil War. By late 1867 the large, elliptical dress skirt of the mid 1860s had evolved into a smaller, looped-up, “polonaise” overskirt. This attractive silhouette was inspired by 18th-century fashions. Historical interest was also expressed by “Watteau” back pleats, “Pompadour” necklines, and “Marie Antoinette” fichus. The appeal of these styles was intensified by rich fabrics and lively colors.
      The 350 patterns and 609 illustrations in this book are drawn from a rare complete bound volume of the first issues of Harper’s Bazar, from November 1867 through December 1868. Harper’s Bazar was the most sophisticated American fashion magazine of this period. It weekly published sewing, needlework, and millinery patterns illustrated by exquisite engraved plates. These practical patterns enabled every woman to make her own entire wardrobe. They were supplemented by columns that advised readers on planning their outfits and by articles that focused on specific techniques.

      This unique book provides sewing patterns for day dresses, evening dresses, accessories, outerwear, lingerie, corsets, crinolines, bridal wear, and clothes for riding and bathing. Instructions for enlarging, fitting, and using the patterns are included. Patterns for garment trimmings use such techniques as heirloom sewing, embroidery, crocheting, knitting, tatting, and ribbon work. Millinery patterns include bonnets, hats, and evening headdresses. Additional articles give instructions for authentic dressmaking, corset making, millinery, hairdressing, crocheted tatting, and netting. Selections from fashion columns describe materials, colors, shoes, jewelry, trousseaux, and mourning. In short, this book contains all the information needed to create a complete outfit—or many.
      Reconstruction Era Fashions is a rich pattern source for sewers and needleworkers who recreate period costumes for the theater, living history, bridal wear, or dolls. It’s a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.

Contents

This comprehensive book contains patterns, fashion plates, and assembly instructions for:

• 13 day dresses, 15 day waists, 8 day paletots, and 3 day jackets
• 19 evening waists
• 26 outer paletots, cloaks, and mantillas for day and evening
• 6 corsets, 2 crinolines, and 3 bustles
• 14 undergarments and nightdresses
• 7 chemisettes, 26 collars and cuffs, 11 cravats, and 7 jabots
• 7 fichus, 3 berthas, 6 belts and sashes, 1 pair bretelles
• 13 bonnets, 4 hats, 8 caps, 2 baschliks, 7 evening headdresses, and 4 veils
• 4 bridal toilettes, 1 riding habit, 3 items of bathing wear
• Plus parasols, aprons, slippers, leggings, garters, peplums, handkerchiefs, a purse, a scarf, and illustrated directions for 14 hairstyles

 The wide variety of illustrated needlework patterns for garments and trimmings includes:

• 74 sewing and tailoring patterns
• 74 heirloom sewing patterns
• 35 instructions for hand-sewing techniques
• 77 embroidery patterns
• 54 ribbon work patterns
• 42 crochet patterns
• 17 tatting and crocheted tatting patterns
• 23 netting patterns
• 20 beading patterns
• Plus knitting, lace making, fringe making, and appliqué

 Only 13 cents per pattern! Also included are:

• 47 fashion columns describing styles, colors, fabrics, trimmings, accessories, shoes, and jewelry
• Illustrated how-to articles on dressmaking, corset making, millinery, crocheted tatting, and netting
• New directions for enlarging and using the patterns

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